![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-keo-dai-pen-eo-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-keo-dai-pen-eo-tt.jpg)
Thông số thiết kế rập đầm ráp dưới chân ngực-cổ vuông tim-không tay:
Ngang vai : 36 cm
Dài áo : 90 cm
Hạ eo : 38 cm
Vòng cổ : 32 cm
Vòng nách : 36 cm
Vòng ngực : 84 cm
Vòng eo : 64 cm
Vòng mông : 92 cm
Chéo ngực : 18 cm
Dang ngực : 18 cm
Cách thiết kế rập thân trước
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Mở phần mềm thiết kế rập PDS.Vẽ hình chữ nhật:
AB: Dài áo = số đo – 2 cm chồm vai + 3 cm pince ngực = 91 cm
BK: Ngang lai = Ngang mông (hoặc + 3→5) = 28 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dai-rong-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dai-rong-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ cổ:
AE: Vào cổ = 1/6 Cổ + 0,5 cm = 1/5 Cổ = 6,4 cm
AF: Hạ cổ = 1/6 Cổ + 1 cm = 1/5 Cổ + 0,5 cm = 6,9 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ vai:
AC: Ngang vai = ½ Vai – 0,5cm =17,5 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-vai-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-vai-tt.jpg)
CC1: Hạ vai = 4 cm. Nối đường C1E![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-vai-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-vai-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ nách:
C1D: Hạ nách = ½ Vòng nách – 2cm = 16 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-nach-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-nach-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ ngực:
II2: Ngang ngực = ¼ Ngực + 2cm = 23 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-nguc-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-nguc-tt.jpg)
Đánh cong vòng nách![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-vong-nach-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-vong-nach-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ eo:
AL: Hạ eo = số đo – 2 cm = 36 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-eo-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-eo-tt.jpg)
LL1: Ngang eo = ¼ Eo + 1 cm cử động + 3 cm pince = 20 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-eo-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-eo-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ mông:
LM: Hạ mông = 2/10 Mông + 1→2 cm = 19,4 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-mong-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ha-mong-tt.jpg)
MM1: Ngang mông = ¼ Mông + 1→2 cm = 24 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-mong-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-ngang-mong-tt.jpg)
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Nối đường sườn
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Vẽ lai
KK1: Giảm sườn = 3 cm.
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Vẽ pince eo:
Dang ngực:
NI = 1/2 dang ngực = 9 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dang-nguc-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dang-nguc-tt.jpg)
Vẽ PK2 vuông góc II2![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-duong-pen-vuong-goc-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-duong-pen-vuong-goc-tt.jpg)
Chéo ngực:
FP1 = 18 cm
P1H1 = 3 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dinh-pen-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-dinh-pen-tt.jpg)
HH2 = 7 cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-pen-duoi-eo-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-pen-duoi-eo-tt.jpg)
Rộng pince QQ1: HQ = HQ1 = 1,5 cm
Nối đường pince H1QH2Q1
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Cổ áo:
C1C2: vai áo = 5cm
FF1: cổ sâu = 6cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-sau-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-sau-tt.jpg)
F1F2: cổ tim = 4 cm. F1 kẻ vuông góc lên 2cm![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tim-vuong-1-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tim-vuong-1-tt.jpg)
Vô 1,5cm –> C3
Nối C2C3, vẽ cong –> cổ vuông tim![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tim-vuong-2-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-co-tim-vuong-2-tt.jpg)
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Vẽ pince ngực:
Vẽ 2 đường hai bên pince bằng nhau, nối lại đường sườn![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-keo-pen-noi-pen-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-keo-pen-noi-pen-tt.jpg)
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Nách áo:
I1I2: nách cao: 2cm
Vẽ cong I2C1
I2I2′: giảm sườn = 1cm, nối I2′ đến chân pince![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-nach-ao-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-nach-ao-tt.jpg)
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Đường ráp dưới chân ngực:
P1N = 8cm (chân ngực)
N kẻ song song LL1 –> N1, N2
N1NN2 –> đường cắt![thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-duong-rap-chan-nguc-tt](https://thietkerap.com.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/thiet-ke-rap-dam-rap-duoi-chan-nguc-co-vuong-tim-khong-tay-duong-rap-chan-nguc-tt.jpg)
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Kéo dài pince eo